The Story Of The Hurricane – Part 3 – MARIA

We can now see the lighthouse from our home in Bravos

Maria

Email written 0930 19 September 2019.  We have been told the power will go off at 6 tonight ,  but it just went off for 5 minutes.  So I thought I better get this out before it goes again. We are picking 6pm optimistic! We are ready for this! but it will be different to the last one.  We were so lucky with the change of course with Irma, I don’t think so this time.  For one thing all the models are agreeing with her course, unlike Irma.  The National guard have arrived on the island, so hopefully no trouble here.  Huge trouble on Tortola following Irma. Tempers are flaring here, everyone is very stressed and angry. Just to remind you, our house is concrete and very solid, flat roof and louver windows.  It is very strong.  If we have to we will move downstairs to the BnB as it has less windows and exposure to the weather. OK the power has been off and on a couple of times so will send this now. I have my cell phone but keeping it charged is a problem. They are thinking of cutting the water off at some point today as well. We have enough drinking water for about 8 days!

This email never got sent

The most terrifying night of my life!

The power has been off since mid-morning ad Rhonda arrived about 12, it is starting to get quite windy. It increases all day and by about 1930 it feels about the same as Irma.  It is dark now, and we all decide that we should go to bed – maybe we can sleep through the worst of it – they said pre-dawn will be the worst.

We all did sleep, but the noise of the wind woke me after a couple of hours and I couldn’t lie there anymore.  It is pitch black, Rhonda is asleep and so is Chris. I can’t see anything out the windows it’s too dark. The noise is getting louder and the windows are getting silted up on the outside. Water is starting to come in under the door at the back and the front porch. I am checking the windows constantly trying to see what’s going on outside. I can see blue and red flashing glows out there, the National Guard are patrolling, this is quite comforting. Checking checking, round and round the house, what can I do?

It is quieter and safest in the bunk room, we have pushed the 2 bunks up against the inside wall, furthest away from the 1 window in that room. A light out the back keeps coming on – we have no power! There must be someone out there! It is so dark outside but then the light comes on I can see that it is like looking through mist, its like the light is shining from under a blanket. I dismiss this thought but it keeps happening so I wake Chris up, terrified that someone is out there and needs help. Turns out to be a battery powered security light I didn’t even know we had.

1am, 2am, 3am, still awake, I try to rest, must have fallen asleep for a few minutes, I woke to Rhonda screaming, I jumped off the bunk into ankle deep water, my heart is racing and I am shaking, I get to Rhonda and she is OK just got a fright wit all the water. its 3:30am, we try bailing the water into the shower, more coming in than we can keep up with, the water from the front is meeting the water from the back! The noise now is deafening, I want to look out the windows, but Rhonda yells, keep away from the windows! She is right, they are buckling under the pressure and look like they will blow in and any moment. Roaring bangs and crashes outside, sounds like cars colliding, if you were outside now you probably wouldn’t survive.

Chris is up now and we are all bailing – this is useless, but we have to do something! It is like it is raining inside the house, water is coming in horizontally through every louver window gap, everything is soaked. The mud is coming in with the water, this is so frightening!

5am we give up, Rhonda and I go to the bunk room and huddle up in the corner praying the windows stay intact and the roof stays on. If that happened, we would just have to stay covered as much as we can and ride it out, we realise now that there would be nowhere to go, and no safe way to get there, its all for one at this stage. Chris lies on the couch, safe from the front doors at least, I must have drifted off.

Before

6am its just getting light, the wind seems to be dying down a bit, it is still raining. I try to see out the window through the mud caked on the glass. It looks like a war zone, Pam and Kim’s roof terrace has gone, I can see our gate down the driveway, roofing iron everywhere. As it gets lighter and the wind gets less we can open the doors and start sweeping the water and mud out. Rhonda’s car is written off, looks like it has been in a high speed collision. The roof of the yellow house flew into the car and ended up in the orange houses yard. Trees, branches, fences, power poles, all down, we now have a full view of the Atlantic Ocean. Its hard to comprehend what I am seeing.

Iron gate, no windage, unbelievable
This branch fell away from the house
Pam and Kim’s roof deck – gone
Rhonda’s car saved the bottom level of the house from flying iron

It was terrifying during the hurricane and then the aftermath was as bad.  So many people lost everything. We can’t believe no-one was killed (during the storm on Vieques anyway) People are amazingly though, and so resilient.  The community really did come together and help each other.  We would meet at the square everyday to talk with people.  This was the only way we have communication. At this stage we had no idea about anywhere else, not even the other side of our little island.  The roads were blocked, the power was off, no phone coverage. 

2 minute phone call on Mayors Sat phone
Army ration packs

The municipality were great and did everything that they could given their limited resources.  By day 7 they were giving out Military ration packs of food and bottled water to everyone and holding a meeting at 2pm everyday to advise of the situation. Day 8 they offered a 2 minute satellite call for everyone.  I took that opportunity to call Mum to get the word out that we were ok.  I lined up for 2 hours but it was worth it. 

Unlike Irma, it continued to rain and was overcast for 3 days, everything was so wet and could not get dry. It was incredible to see the destruction nature can cause. The trees which were still standing had no foliage and even worse – no bark! 

We had decided by now that we should try to leave but we were hearing that San Juan airport was still not functional except for the military. So there was no point in us going to the main land to then camp out at the airport for days, we were safer where we were. 

Roofing iron everywhere
Top story of La Lan Chita on the road

We were quite worried about the crime which was increasing every day.  Chris rigged up some traps around our house with our neighbour and devised a signal system if people were on the property.  Chris had a picaxe on his side of the bed. It was so dark! A few homes had generators so had power but they were running out of fuel and the lines for the gas stations (on the days that fuel did come across on the ferry) were 5 hours long! There was a curfew in place from 6pm to 5am, this was policed by the National Guard who had come across to the island the day before Maria.  We heard that someone had stolen the generator from the morgue at the hospital! At the end of day 4 the water stopped and that was it for 3 days.  They got it going again for 1 day but they tried to steel the diesel that was running the generator which was running the pump, couldn’t get it so sabotaged the water system!  No water again for another 3 days.  You know, we had no power for 10 days following Irma and we were getting really grumpy with it. BUT this time, with no water! no power was easy!!  It is the water which is critical and communication, that is essential also, we can live without power.  Funny how it is all relative. We were collecting water from the roof to use to flush the toilet and try to hand wash clothes, we were showering in the driveway with the hose from the roof water. We are using paper plates so don’t have to do dishes.

Again the garbage has not been collected, lots of rotten food and everything is so wet, perfect breeding ground for flies and mosquitos, they are rampant, it is hideous. A doctor has said that there will disease outbreaks soon. And again we are struggling with the heat, no power, no water, no ice! We heard that they used all the spare parts to fix the power after Irma, so no way to fix the power this time and Vieques is feeling like the “forgotten Island” sitting at the bottom of the “help” list.(Vieques was still running on generators 12 months later!)

Sound traps around the house
Trying to get cool
So many lost so much

We remained on Vieques for 16 days post-Maria. We were evacuated by the US State Department together with the NZ Embassy in Washington. Its a great story of relief and sadness, of nations pulling together and people helping people. To be published soon!

The Story Of The Hurricane – Part 2


So Calm

Post Irma / Pre Maria

Written September 2017. We survived! Friday 0630, about 48 hours after She started. We have no power so no internet and no news of the outside world. We have no idea how the rest of the islands got on or where she is up to now. We did hear that they were expecting land fall in the states at the weekend?? Today it is so hard to believe that this ever happened. Calm sea and no wind! She came and went! And it wasn’t nearly as bad as we were expecting!


There is not too much structural damage as far as we can see, mostly trees down and powerlines. The word on the street is that the hurricane hit Tortola and bounced north, so her path changed at the last minute before it got to us so that is why we were so well off. So we didn’t end up with the full force – thank goodness! As I said, it wasn’t as bad as we thought it would be, but it was still quite frightening at times.

Our local little sunset bar “Al’s” has been damaged. They lost all the roofing material and some Windows. They have a lot of water inside, a big clean up for them. Not sure when they will be open again. The supermarket was open yesterday! But the ferries are not running so they will run out of food pretty soon.
Kim called in yesterday to see if we were ok. He took us in his car to the ice plant and we bought a couple of bags of ice. We stocked up on food and meals before the hurricane but with no power the fridge is now warm. The freezer is a bit cooler and we have put one bag in each of the freezers, so at least it can act a bit like a fridge. We loaded the downstairs one with stuff we would need later and haven’t opened it so it will be staying a bit more ” frozen” but the one upstairs is all defrosted. So we are eating our way through the freezer. It is working really well, we will have enough food for the next 3/4 days providing we can keep it relatively cool.  We have no idea how long the power will be off. Some say 3 weeks and some think it will be back on fairly quickly.

No electricity. It is always surprising how much we rely on power! We are quite lost without the internet. I hate not being able to talk to the girls on a regular basis and I know Mum has been very worried, we still have use of our cell phone, but there is only limited credit so we are being careful. The phone and laptops will run out of powers soon and then we won’t even be able to send a txt. Hopefully power will be restored sooner rather than later. And gee we miss the fans! It is so hot sleeping without the fan going. There doesn’t seem to be much wind at the moment either. It is so calm just now which is making sleeping almost impossible. We did hear, before the power went off, that there is another tropical storm coming right behind Irma (Jose). There is no sign of it just now though. 
So we are fine! We survived! We will just carry on with our usual routine as much as we can. Hop on our bikes this morning and go walk the dogs, keep eating the freezer empty! 

Cash only on the island at the moment, no power – no EFTPOS/Credit card machines, no ATM! So the bank gets robbed! We were lucky, we had cash – stashed in the freezer – its defrosted now though LOL!

Day 5. Still no power.  Every day we have been hunting for ice and WiFi! Tsunami bar has a huge generator so here we sit! We are ok, getting quite frustrated with lack of information but that is really minimal to what other islands have had to deal with. Jose is tracking a long way from us now, so is not a threat!

Got to be in quick for a spot!

Day 7 now with no power. We have managed perfectly with our food provisions and haven’t had to throw much out. We have come to the end of our fresh food and will be starting on the canned goods. The supermarket has been open right through so we can buy more. Having said that though it has been pretty slim pickings in there, no fresh milk or bread, eggs, fresh produce.  We have had some great support from the friends and neighbours. We have been driven up to the ice plant a couple of times and our lovely neighbour Alberto, has dropped us in a bag of ice twice now,!!  So we have been able to keep things cool enough not to spoil. Everyone is in the same boat. Some homes have generators but not many. Everyone is looking to keep food cool and are coming to the end of what they have in stock. The ferry service started again a couple of days ago so things are looking up, the supermarket is slowly being restocked. 

WiFi!


We still don’t know the extent of the devastation on our neighbouring islands and USA main land. No power, no internet! Everyone is heading to the Tsunami Bar, the one spot to re charge their devices and get contact with the outside world. We saw a clip of when Irma hit Florida, it looked terrible! We are all so incredible thankful for what we DIDN’T get.  We do have a battery powered radio, but it is ALL in Spanish- not much use to us who can only say hello and goodbye, and 2 beers please!

Petrol is like gold! People are starting to run out of fuel but they did send a couple of tankers on a special ferry 2 days ago. But it’s amazing, the 3 gas stations seem to take turns at running out of fuel and not being able to run their generators. The queues for petrol must be 40 – 50 cars long.


The rubbish is collecting on the streets, the garbage truck hasn’t been for 2 weeks now, but I think that is probably just a Vieques problem rather than hurricane fall out. But there seems to be so much of it around. I imagine there has been a lot of spoilt food around.
It is great to be able to be in contact again, even though it is in small snippets, compulsory trip to the pub each afternoon! Oh well……..

It is very dark! No lights around us. It gets dark about 7 / 7:30, we are powering through the candles but usually go to bed not long after dark. Oh boy we just can’t wait to get the fans going again, it has been very still for the last few days and the humidity is probably still 100%. 


Electricity is restored 10 days post Irma. Just in time for the information to come through that another category 5 hurricane is heading our way – Maria. She will be here in 3 days. Easy! We have done this before, we know the drill, water, food, candles, grab bag etc etc. How bad can it be?? Look at Irma – We’ve got this!!! WRONG!

Part 3 – the most terrifying night on my life – next week!

The Story Of The Hurricane – Part 1

Chris and I spent 2017 house sitting, 5 months in Puerto Rico and 5 months in South East Asia. House sitting exposes you to many wonderful experiences, the people, the food, cultures, language etc etc Weather is one we don’t think of so much. We have never felt so hot in Puerto Rico for example and later this year we will possibly have snow as we are currently in Europe. It is all part of the experience of traveling around our amazing planet and you have to embrace all of the above. But, we have experienced a severe weather episode, not 1 but 2 hurricanes back to back – Irma and Maria, September 2017 – Puerto Rico. So while we get ourselves settled into life in France, I would like to share our Hurricane story. Pre Irma, Post Irma and Pre Maria, Post Maria then Our Evacuation, I hope you enjoy our story.

Pre-Irma

La Chiva, Vieques

Vieques, beautiful Island to the East of Puerto Rico Main Island. 34km X 5km.

Written early September 2017. We are good, getting our heads around preparation for Hurricane Irma who is destined to cross our path in a couple of days. The Island is in preparation mode, the ferry service is being suspended on Tuesday and all the ferries will be taken around to San Juan for safe keeping, the airport will probably close as well.  We don’t really know what we are in for.  We are being advised by locals to be prepared, get food provisions in and collect/buy lots of water.  The power will more than likely be turned off, before it gets cut off by the weather – this is less damaging to the system apparently.  The supermarkets get stocked up on a Tuesday and often by Monday it is slim pickings in there anyway, so with this mass “buy lots of food” there will be nothing on the shelves.  Also heard though, that they start giving frozen/refrigerated stuff away, like ice cream etc, if it looks like the power will go out.  Happy days!!

We may get a bit of water in through our back door so we are going to make some sand bags up and Chris is going to dig a trench in preparation.  At the moment they don’t know for sure if it will hit us directly.  Some of the predicted paths show her coming right at us, some have her tracking North. Even if she tracks north, we will still get some impact being on the fringes.  We will be ok here. we are in a really solid house.  We know enough people here now too that if it is total devastation, we have places to go and people to take us there.  We are certainly not alone.  

We have a water collection drum from the roof for the garden, so that will be great. We have stocked up the freezer. We have gas cooking both upstairs and downstairs in the apartment.  Our gas tanks are a bit exposed, if they blow away we have the downstairs ones as back up, we have loads of candles and vodka! We think we are ready.  So funny though, we are off to the beach today! hard to believe what is coming.

Facebook post:

So we are in the path of hurricane Irma. She will hit in about 18 hours. Cat 5, record wind speed recorded with Jose right up Irma’s bum. 185 mph winds gusting to 225. We are well prepared – as much as hurricane virgins can be! Got the food, water, candles, torches, grab bag for evacuation. Our house is very secure, the power will be turned off, maybe even as soon as tonight. I will try to keep updated here for as long as I can. Xxx

During. This Hurricane was predicted as cat5, and they said it is the biggest in the area ever.  So we were very concerned, in fact we are really scared.  We have done lot of prep, we had several days to get prepared, so we feel we were in a good place.  The wind started at 4am and got stronger and stronger.   At times the wind is gusting so strong it makes us hold our breath… stop…. And wait… BREATH!! but it really isn’t as bad as we thought it would be. We have no power, so no news on what is actually happening out there.   We have lots of food, we even have a roast chicken cooking, bottle of wine, candle light – its only 3:30 pm!! Giving us something to do to keep our minds off the howling wind outside. We cooked the roast in the oven downstairs as it has a manual temp dial. The one upstairs is all electric controls. We can manually light the hob, but not the oven. So Chris is the brave one! Up and down, in the rain, trying to stay on his feet, carrying trays of roast dinner! Late afternoon, she was getting a bit less intensity, or maybe we were just getting used the sound of the wind.  We have been watching the palm trees and they are now blowing in the opposite direction – she must be passing!  Blowing East, then North then West. When she swung around to the north we got water in the front doors and were on mop up duty for about an hour then she swung to the west and hammered the other side. We knew then that she was on her way! It was really fascinating seeing the change of wind direction as she progressed.


The house across from us has lost their veranda roof, it is still just hanging there from one corner, very lucky it didn’t go flying. There is no one home which is just as well, one of the uprights went through a window and they will have a lot of weather in there being on the west side.

So that was a Cat 5 hurricane – or was it? We didn’t know it at the time but there was worse to come, and…… is it the hurricane or the aftermath that is more dangerous?

Part 2 – Post Irma and Pre Maria – Next Week

Vieques, Puerto Rico

#travel #hurricanemaria #hurricaneirma #survive #cat5 #vieques #puertorico #beautifulisland #hot #beach #survive

The last Hurrah! Brazil

Incredible Terrain

This part of Brazil (South) seems to be built on solid bed rock. We saw this up in Rio also with the incredible rock formations, huge and so steep and high. The sugar loaf and the Christ Statue are examples of this terrain. It is said that Brazilians love the beach so being on or as near to the beach is most important to them. So the Favelas (slums) are all built up the hills. All built on these steep sided cliffs. They have the most amazing views. Its funny how the rich don’t want the view, just to be by the beach, or down beside the coast.

Florianopolis is no different. It is incredibly steep. The homes are built perched on the sides of cliffs is seems – not so many Favelas here, mostly just normal housing. The driveways are so steep I just don’t know how they manage it every day. But I guess it is just what you get used to. In some places the footpath is laid around boulder formations, fences are built around the rock, it is so hard and solid, nothing will move it. It is good that there are no earthquakes here. There is a really steep hill between us here in Lagoa and the west side of the island and the city, we have to go over this road in the bus. I have to shut my eyes, the bus drivers are so fast, it honestly is like a roller coaster ride.

Learning Portuguese has been fun! We both admit that languages are not our strong suit, we struggled in Puerto Rico with Spanish, but to be honest I think we were a little shy to try. But that experience has given us confidence to try harder this time, and we did, with great success. The people were so accommodating to let us try, which made a big difference.

When I lived in Scotland (a long time ago) there was a “thing” called Munro Bagging.  A Munro is a mountain in Scotland which is more than 914.4 metres (3000 feet) It was a challenge to “Bag” as many as you could. Well we thought it would be fun to try “beach Bagging” here – There are 42! We bagged 8 ☹ but not a bad effort given the weather was cold and wet for 75% of the 3 ½ weeks we were here.

Cerveja! Brazilians love their Cerveja. Just happen to be in Floripa for a Beer festival.  We have to go! So up and over the dreaded hill with the crazy bus driver we go. 14 different breweries and about the same in food trucks. Live music and a great atmosphere. All beers 300ml for $R10. First beer truck we go to is a lovely young Brazilian woman who guessed that we were Australian. On more conversation she knew we were kiwis and it turned out that she had been there and was an avid supporter of the All Blacks. She is going to get a tattoo on her forearm of the all blacks so that when she puts her arms up in the haka stance, you will be able to see it. This woman was a dream come true for your average kiwi bloke as not only did she love NZ and followed the All Blacks, but she knew her beer! Rye beer, the rye brings the hops out – so she said! We walked away with a new friend, hugs all round – you just wouldn’t read about it!

Live music at the beer fest. 5 gorgeous young Brazilian girls with big guitars and long hair come on stage and start rocking ACDC! Complete with blond chick in school boy outfit. They were amazing! The lead guitarist was so talented, they rocked the house for 2 hours. Singing all ACDC songs in English of course, but then the lead singer would talk to the crowd – in Portuguese! Just felt wrong somehow – but I guess its actually not, its quite normal, its her country and they speak Portuguese!

Brazil? AMAZING! We will definitely come back here, It is a massive country, so much to explore, we want to see more!

Florianopolis – The Friendly Isle

Brazil September 2019

Joaquina Beach

I was asked today by our lovely house owners, what do we appreciate most so far? Well that’s a big question. This is a wonderful place and it put Chris and I into a serious discussion on what IS actually what we like the most?? We are loving so many things about Floripa! But the best thing we have found are the people. We cycled south yesterday to a point on the map where we thought would be the closest point across the dunes to the beach. We got it a bit wrong but kept exploring. We locked our bikes up and walked towards the dunes. Hello, a man walking toward us with a New Zealand Beanie on. So we stopped him and had a chat. He has been to NZ, did some surfing in Raglan and also had been in Australia. So he told us where his house was and suggested we should get together for a BBQ. We agreed that we would go and knock on his door some time. He said he loves his country and loved NZ but it showed him how much he has here in Floripa and just LOVES that a Kiwis are here and enjoying it. We parted and carried on our walk. When we returned we had a note attached to our bikes with phone number and have since been in touch and WILL go and have a beer next week!

Porto de Lagoa

Every day we have another example of the friendliness of the Brazilian people – too much to write, as it will bore you to tears, but I just want to stress just how awesome this has been. We make friends everywhere we go, people just want to talk and they do not get cranky if we don’t understand each other at first, in fact I think they enjoy the challenge and love trying to speak in English. Everyone is interested too, they want to engage and have a chat and they go out of their way to help. The security guards at the apartment, the supermarket checkout, the restaurants, the passers by, the guy in the bus line, WOW great people. AND big hugs when we said good bye! Maravilhosa Brazil!!

Dunas Ingleses

#floripa #friendlypeople #dunes #zerotohero #speakportuguese #travel

The Story of a Bad Day – With a Delightful Ending

Brazil, September 2019

4 September I received an email from Aigle Azul (the French airline we are flying to Paris with) saying that our flights to Paris have been cancelled. I googled it and found that the airline has gone bankrupt! Oh Crap! So I wrote to Tripair (agent) to ask do we get a refund? Do we get another alternative flight booked? Etc. The cancellation email was very short with no explanation but there was a phone number in France to call for assistance. I am roaming with Vodafone and calls to anywhere from here is $5.79 per minute. So lets try to get a Brazilian SIM card and call with that. A call to our house owners says that the companies here in Brazil are Claro, TIM and VIVO, they are all at the Beiramar Shopping centre in the city. Sweet, a trip in the bus into the city! While we are there we should find a travel agent and see if they have any better priced replacement flights than what we can find in our initial search online. We are getting really good at the busses and understand the system now so into the city we go.

Found all 3 Telecom companies. Chose Claro as they are the main provider in Brazil. Took a ticket and waited. Got to a lovely young man who speaks very little English, but got through to him, we need a SIM and the ability to call France. OK no can do. Can get a SIM but calls are only to Brazil, but they could load it with calling ability to France but would cost $R20 per minute ($7.50NZD) no, better off with our roaming. Ok so no point in going to agent, we really need to hear from Tripair and/or talk to the airline first, you never know, they may book us onto another flight – not very likely but you never know. Plus it was pretty hard going at Claro with the language barrier and good old google translate! So we decide to leave the travel agent for now. So lets get some groceries, downstairs there is a lovely gourmet Mercado. Stuff it all into the backpack, lets find lunch and a beer, we need it!

After lunch I try to find my purse to get the money for the bus, not anywhere to be found. I traced my thoughts back to the Mercado and filling the backpack on a bench outside the store. OH Crap! MY drivers licence, credit card, EFTPOS card and around $R200. Straight back to the store, they cant understand a word, but still so friendly while shaking heads not knowing what we are saying. Chris spots a security guard and askes her, she understands that we have lost something and takes us to the balcao de informacoes and the two lovely girls there just look blankly at us. I pointed at Chris’s wallet and they reached forward and pulled out my purse! OMG such a relief. The security guard erupted in big smiles, so did the two behind the counter – we were all jumping up and down with excitement, Chris hugged the security guard, we just could not thank them enough! Obragado obrigado!! WOW can you imagine that? Someone picked it up and handed it in, everything still intact! Nothing missing. Such lovely people! Guess this would not have happened in Rio. So we go home, on the bus, no further ahead with the flight problem, but I do have my wallet!

#floripa #grateful #helpful #lostmywallet #flightscancelled #claro #zerotohero

The Day With A New Friend

Rio de Janeiro, August 2109

The people here in Brazil are so friendly, we are finding this everywhere we go. The hostel that we were staying at in Copacabana is up a very steep hill and perched on the edge of a Favela. The taxi driver commented as we started up the hill, “oh I don’t like to go up here!” but we walked up and down that hill every day and saw no trouble. There were 4 armed police in a car at the bottom of the hill every day though, so they are a good deterrent. Every day we would see the police up at the top by us at the little padaria (bakery), fully armed with machine guns, hanging around shooting the breeze with their colleagues, just a normal day being fully armed!

 My friend from Post, Bruno, put us in touch with Karla, a lovely Brazilian lady who lives in Rio. We met up with her and she took us to a local restaurant where we tried the local traditional Saturday meal of Feijoada. This is pork, all cuts, chops, loin, sausage etc cooked in a stew with black beans, served with rice, kale and orange segments. Karla ordered everything for us including a couple of other traditional dishes. One was made with what they called dried meat – it was just like corned beef, but in a creamy/cheesy sauce, really yummy. The other was Tapioca Dadinho, which looked a bit like crumbed camembert, little bite sized pieces of deliciousness!  We also had our first try of Cachaca in the cocktail form which was straight Cachaca with bashed fresh lime and lime juice. We did have a couple of those – pretty strong stuff. Cachaca is a sugar cane spirit. It was so good to have a local order for us, at this point we are still quite out of our depth when it comes to menus! It was a great experience and we would never have tried those things if it wasn’t for Karla.

Right, Cachaca under our belts, lets go to the Christ the Redeemer statue. The statue is built on top of Mount Corcovado, completed in 1931. 30m tall and 26m wide! He is so impressive! We went up by cog railway which was a trip in itself! So steep in places and the track almost passes through peoples houses then hangs over the edge, not for the faint hearted. Once up there it is a short walk to the base of the statue. Quite awe struck with the sight! The weather was not the best this day and we were so high up that the clouds were drifting past, this made it even more spectacular. So many people here! This was a Saturday so very busy, during the week they put mattresses down for people to lie on to take the photos, he is so tall it the only way to get him all in! The view from up here of Rio was outstanding too! The city is built on this amazing rocky terrain, totally fascinating and amazing.

Thank you Karla for the most fabulous day! One to absolutely remember!

#christtheredeemer #rio #cachaca #cogtrain #zerotohero #feijoada

The weather in September

Brazil, September 2019

Copacabana Beach

September is spring time, just like NZ. We arrived in Rio 21 August and left Florianopolis on 23 September. We were told by a local that September is very fickle, cold, hot, rain, wind, calm – all of the above. We have had a couple of really hot days and a couple of days freezing cold, so we agree totally! Probably not the choicest month to visit the South of Brazil. Brazil is such an enormous country, we have talked to people from the North East and they say it is Summer all year round and looking on the map we can see why. 100’s and 100’s of miles north of here.  It has been hanging around the 20deg C mark most days, which isn’t too bad, but there has been a nasty Southerly wind which makes it feel colder. Jeans and the puffer jacket have been worn on many occasions – as have the bikini and sun dress. We have made the most of the colder wet days by travelling on the bus rather than walking or cycling and doing indoor things and as soon as it looks like it will be sunny we head to the beach. We have had a high of 26 and a high of 14, the lows are around 14 – 18. Rio was wet, it rained most days we were there, but we were very lucky and when we visited the Christ and Favela, we had breaks in the weather and even got blue sky and clear sky for the fantastic views.

Florianopolis
Ipanema
Still swimming though!! Copacabana Beach

#Rio #holiday #housesitting #beachday #paraty #florianopolis

16 September 2019
5 September 2019
View from Christ the Redeemer, right up in the clouds

Getting to Rio

Big trip from Brisbane to Brazil. They said 21 hours but it was a bit more than that. Brisbane-Sydney-Santiago-Rio de Janeiro. Flight delayed from Sydney so missed our connection to Rio. All good, Qantas gave is equiv $15 each for lunch and onto another flight 3 hours later. But as these knock-on effects happen we lost our taxi ride to the hotel in Rio. We tried sending an email from Santiago but to no avail, no taxi waiting for us in Rio. A man started talking to us to see if we needed a taxi and told us where the ATM was.  How to get yourself in the shit in Rio – watch this space. The man helped by trying to call the hotel for us – we had already tried and no answer. He said that sometimes, the taxis, they don’t come. The plane was an hour late landing and though we came through almost first, no taxi driver for us. So Chris goes to get cash. The man offered $R130 to take us to our hotel. We know it should not be more than $R100. So negotiate $R90. Right, off we go. We go into the car park – taxis usually have their own rank right?. We stop for him to pay parking, hhmmmm. We get on the road, no meter in the taxi, he knows we have just been to ATM, hmmmm. We watch the sign posts – Copacabana one way we drive the opposite, hmmmm , end up on some smaller roads then a huge tunnel. So I am thinking ok that’s my watch gone, and I wonder how much money Chris drew out? Chris is thinking oh crap, don’t know if I have the energy to take this guy out when he stops the car. OMG what a trip. All works out well, he finds our hotel and walks us to the door. We gave him $R100! So relieved to get here in one piece. 

How easy is it to get into Brazil!. Passport control, 2 words, stamp and friendly smile. Collect bags and line up thinking there is another official post to go through. No, we start walking in a line toward a couple of coppers who are looking and that’s it. I think there was a facial recognition camera watching too, but, how easy was that! Though we do think that Chris looks like a bomb manufacturer as he was stopped in Sydney and Santiago and swabbed down for bombs! I of course sailed through LOL!!

The Aquarela do Leme is up a steep windy hill right on the edge of a Favela. The hotel insists It is a safe neighbourhood. It is fascinating to have the poverty right beside us. The Favelas are up the hills and have the best views, typically Brazilians like to be on the beach, so the slum areas have been relegated to up the hills which have the most amazing views.

Rio de Janiero
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil