Ship’s Log – Part 1

Banana Split, Raja Ampat, October 2025

0700 We arrived to see the bright yellow boat nestled in between other yachts at the Tampa Garam Boat Harbour. We were knackered, having done an overnight flight from KL (Air Asia-tiny seats) via a 4-hour layover in Jakarta.

We get ourselves and all our luggage safety on board. This is all so new to us; we have never been on this boat before. We start exploring, turning on switches looking in cupboards, stripping off clothes as it is getting hotter and hotter. We close the fridge and try to get it going but it doesn’t seem to be working. We do a little diagnostics as good as we can given we don’t know where to look. But this is just a boat, right? We have been on boats before; how hard can this be. No luck, this fridge is refusing to cooperate.

By now it is a decent time in France, so we call and talk to the owner, how do you turn the fridge on? We had already found the fridge motor and all looked ok there, all switches we can see  are on, Arnaud is none the wiser. In the end we call the Skipper who delivered Banana Split from Australia, and ask him how did he turn the fridge off? Maybe we could retrace his steps in reverse. So, it turns out that there is a separate switch for the fridge, in a faraway place, all on its own, cunningly disguised as the anchor winch switch. Well, you don’t know if you don’t know!

Life is now good; we have the whole boat operational. By now it is afternoon and we are starting to really feel the heat. Then an angel came down from heaven, in the form of the Aussie bloke from the boat next door, in a little grey inflatable – carrying 2 cold beers! What a guy! This was so appreciated, we cannot say. This was Matt, and his wife Jo. They have sailed up from Australia and are sailing around Indonesia and beyond, for as long as it takes; Awesome! After getting some supplies of our own, we took our borrowed dinghy to their boat and spent the evening enjoying their company, swapping our warm beer for cold. This is a fantastic start to our time here in Sorong.

We spend 2 weeks at the marina. Matt and Jo left the day after we arrived. We are busy every day, getting to know the boat, doing a little tidying and sorting and exploring a bit of Sorong.

We decide we should do a day trip, a little shake down, feel the boat. So, we let the lines go and head out for a few hours. All goes well and we like Banana Split, she is a good solid boat and very easy to manoeuvre.

Coming back in is a little challenging. We have never had anything to do with the Mediterranean Mooring system which is used here at Tampa Garam. We had a good plan and had left the stern lines ashore where we could back in and pick them up with the boat hook – easy peasy. And it was. We came in and tied up like pros! High fives all round for us! Great day!

Stern lines cris-crossing each other

So, with the trial run completed, it is decided that we should go further and see a bit of this amazing part of the world, Raja Ampat. Let’s go for a week. We spent a few more days provisioning the boat and planning our passage.

Sunday 0630: We head out on a course for Mansur and Kri. The weather is a bit overcast which is giving us shade and the sea is very calm with light variable winds. Other boaties around have been saying that there has been no wind to speak of, so they have not been getting their sails up. We don’t know our headsail from our genoa anyway and have no intention of trying to undo all the perfectly tied up sails and sheets and whatever-else-they-are-called. We would never be able to get it all back together again as we found it. Like re-folding a map – I guess you have to be a certain age to understand what that is like!! Anyway, we do not feel out of place motoring along with all sails neatly stowed in their rightful places.

Making good progress

We are making good speed, 4.5 – 4.8knots, 37 miles to travel. Should make it by about 1530. We almost speak too soon, 5 hours into the journey a squall comes out of nowhere. This was not forecasted. The wind is getting up to 20 knots almost right on the nose. We are now only making 2 – 2.5knots. We take a few good greenies over the bow and things start falling all over the place. We were still towing the dinghy as it was so calm but wished we had brought her up on deck. We just have to punch through it and hope it passes soon.

For three hours that squall held right over us. We took a bit of water in through the front hatches, it is a wet bed tonight. PugWash (newly named dinghy) held on like a brave little soldier and finally it calmed.

We made our way to the anchorage we had chosen from the Chart. It is a new chart plotter, so all the values had to be entered. It was Nautical Miles for distance, and I changed the depth from feet to meters. I thought there was something wrong with the settings because the depths were still showing feet – well that is what I thought. It is so interesting how our brains work when you have a belief or an assumption, you just won’t believe anything else. Maybe this area has not been converted into meters yet, I thought? This is so deep; it has to be feet. Areas showing 200m+ Is this for real?? Turns out Yes, definitely meters. The terrain is so steep. It would go from 80+m to 2m in a boat length, just incredible. So, our anchorage is no good – it is 50m deep here – not 50ft. We only have 60m of chain onboard.

OK, plan B.

1730: It will be getting dark soon. We have to make our way around the top of Kri to where there are 2 mooring buoys. It looks a bit shallower over there, so could anchor if the buoys are being used. But there is a reef between us, and it is getting dark. We navigate very slowly between the island and the shallows, watching the chart plotter, and the depth finder as the sun goes down. It was almost high tide which was totally to our advantage. Chris was on the helm, and I was calling the depths as they changed. Chris could see lumps of reef breaking the surface, shining in the dusky light close by. We got to 2 meters for a bit before it deepened again.

There was a super yacht tied up on what we assumed was the mooring from the resort ashore. Just ahead of her was about 20m depth, lets try to anchor there.

1900: It is fully dark. We get the anchor down. Next minute, a Long-boat full of people coming back from a dive, approach us all in a panic, – “go to the buoy, go to the buoy” oh man! It is pitch black, how the heck will we find a buoy now? But we have to try.

We look back now and think it was an absolute miracle that we found that buoy, but it was there, and we pulled it up first try, then settled for 2 nights.

Sleep didn’t come easily that night, the mooring line made noises we were not used to.

The next day we tidied up, dried everything out and rested after the ordeals of the journey.

Thank you for reading part 1 of our story, part 2 is coming soon, with loads more photos and heaps more fun!

It Is Always An Adventure, Visas, Flat Tyres And Snakes

Cows joining us for our afternoon beers at the beach

Getting into Thailand is never been difficult for us. We have been here each year for the past three years. We never planned it that way but there you go, we are here again. We have never had to be here for more than 30 days, so never thought about the visa requirements. This time we are in for a longer stay. The Thai government increased the stay in Thailand for a lot of countries from 30 days to 60 days, effective from 1 June. Perfect timing, we are arriving on 11th. But, Alas, No. On arrival, the immigration guy said this was in fact, only a concept. 30 days it is then; we will get an extension. This trip we require exactly 60 days.

Sam Roi Yot beach

I was curious to know how this extension thing works. We had been told by friends in Thailand that it is easy, just go to the place and pay the money (equivalent $85NZD) and voilà, extension granted. This sounds good, but being me, I was still a bit concerned. What if they say no for some reason? I feel immigration people have so much power it is frightening. Quite often it seems to be an opinion, or interpretation of the rules by the individual guard, and if they got up on the wrong side on the bed that morning, then you are screwed! And have you ever noticed that different airlines seem to have different rules? Picture this, same day – New Zealand passport holder number 1 – Go to Malaysia on Batik Airline, you need an onward ticket from Malaysia to board the plane, New Zealand passport holder number 2 – go to Malaysia on China Eastern Airlines – you do not. Go from Dominican Republic to Puerto Rico on InterCaribbean Airlines, you need an onward ticket from Puerto Rico, take the same route the day before on Frontier Airlines, and you do not. (we actually missed that flight all together – but that is ANOTHER story all together!!) Really??

The people at the immigration office in Hua Hin were so nice. We ended up going twice as we needed proof of where we were staying in Thailand, along with photos, our passports and the signed application form that we already had. We were given the correct paperwork from our awesome homeowners landlord and within minutes we had our extension. Our friends were right, it is very easy, job done!

As we have been to this part of Thailand recently, it takes no time to settle back into the old neighbourhood. Our homeowners head away on their adventure, and we are left with 2 adorable big dogs. Our daily routine starts with 6am dog walk. We were introduced to a French family at the end of the street with 2 dogs and we end up enjoying our daily morning walk together. It is so wonderful to meet people you know will always be friends, our different nationalities and language challenges makes no difference.

We are very lucky and have been left a car and bicycles to use. We head out on the bikes a few times until one day we stopped for coffee, and when we got to get back on the bike, I realise I have a flat rear tyre. We are about 6 km from home. So I start walking the bike and Chris cycles back to get the car.

Off to the rescue

Chris heads out on a journey a few days later alone and wham! Another flat tyre. But, this time he was about 8 km from home. If anyone knows Chris you will know – of course he did not have a phone on him. So a long, hot walk back for him. This time there are 3 punctures in the one tube, so a new tube goes in. A few days later we notice that the front tyre on the other bike is flat. Another patch! We realise that the thorns from the trees along the beach road are killing us!

These little devils!

Our friend Cristina very kindly has now lent us her motorbike. This is more like it! BUT… First time out – guess what! Flat tyre – Yes, it is true! We had been at the Wyndham resort to celebrate my birthday. On the way there we were thinking that the tyre felt a little soft going over the bumps – but with 2 large Kiwis onboard……. what did we expect! One completely new tyre later, we start to wonder what it is with us – 6 wheels and 6 punctures, not bad odds! Thankfully that was the last of the flat tyres.

This is more like it!!

It was incredibly hot for the first few weeks, and then the rain started. At last, some relief from the heat. We manage to fill our days with dog walks and food hunting. I joined a group and did yoga a couple of times a week and played cards and board games once a week. We try all the local restaurants and marvel at the price of some of the menus. You can eat incredibly cheap here if you stick to the local places. $3 for two, flat rice noodles with chicken, Pad Thai, including soup. And so tasty! We love it how they take your order and start chopping, bit of this and a bit of that and within a very short time you have the most delicious meal in front of you.

A bit more expensive at the bigger restaurants but still, very cheap for us spending New Zealand dollars. We occasionally cook eggs on toast at home, but there are so many places to eat around, so why dirty the dishes at home?? Occasionally we crave a burger or something like that but we love Thai food so much that we never get tired of it.

It is interesting, the condiments for the Thai food. There will always be bowls or small packets of fish sauce with small green chillies, chilli powder and sugar. Sugar goes into almost everything and then you have the opportunity to put more in, it is quite different to what we are used to. This is not unique to Thailand, it is the same in Malaysia. There is quite a problem of diabetes here, I guess you can see why.

Squid boats on the horizon starting their night fishing

Oh the snake!! Driving into our drive we see a green tail disappear under the gate. It is an electric gate, runs on steal wheels along a rail – you know the type. Not sure what the tail belonged too, lizard? Snake? Gate opens, park the car and go to see where “it” went. Oh no! the gate wheels had chopped the snake right in half! You could not have done this if you tried, the poor snake. He was not a poisonous one and he was quite pretty but chopped in two places! Unbelievable!

Poor snake!

Next house sit is back with our dear friend Cristina with all the dogs. We only spend 3 days here this time as she takes a well-deserved weekend off. All the dogs remember us! There are a few new ones, but it takes no time to win their affection. There are a few there who we would dearly love to bring home, but importing dogs from Thailand to NZ is pretty difficult.

A bit of gardening with Tank and Rosie supervising

Last house sit is in the same neighbourhood as the first, 2 dear wee cats, Mumma and daughter. They are pretty timid, but it doesn’t take too long for them to come round, especially the Mumma. We continue to visit with friends from around the corner and eat our way around the district.

One of our favourite things is to go down to the beach about 4pm, have a couple of large Leo’s sitting in the bamboo salas, watch and listen to the ocean, order some ridiculously cheap food, and just enjoy our surroundings. This is what it is all about!

We spent 2 months in Thailand, 3 house sits, 46 dogs, 2 cats and 1 snake later we are heading back to Australia. We always have such a wonderful time in South East Asia, it goes too quickly!! Sad to say goodbye! But we will see you again!

Thank you for reading our story

Another Tale Of Paws And Tails

It’s a dogs life – that’s for sure

We returned to Pran Brui Thailand in July for a couple of weeks with no less that 44 dogs. This is a house sit not for the faint hearted, by the time we are finished here we will be ready for another holiday.

Oscar, originally came from Denmark with Cristina

We were here 8 months ago, since then, sadly, 2 dogs have passed, but ten more have joined the team.

We have fallen straight back into the routine we had before, like we have never been away. We are pretty sure most of the dogs remember us and we have broken through some of the barriers we had last time with the stubborn ones.

Fighsty, 18 years old, happy to nap in my arms, such a cutie!

You know it is so interesting watching this pack. There are many different personalities, some leaders, some followers, the shit stirrers and the complacent. The puppies have grown into naughty teenagers, testing the boundaries at every opportunity. The OAP’s are sitting back laughing at the whole circus in front of them. The policeman and the colonel are still ruling but have a bit of opposition from new and younger ones challenging for the “top dog” position. It’s a whole community, a village, with its management and hierarchy very much intact.

Feeding time is a noisy affair. 44 bowls of food of varying sizes, containing a variety of vitamins and boosters. Bone broth for the sick one, Chihuahua food for the chihuahuas, coloured bowls for the poodles. We feed in batches, some are food crazy and need to be separated, others are very polite and wait their turn. We have a great routine and can get them all fed, mostly without incident, twice a day. The dogs can get quite possessive at feeding time and one day a fight broke out, while our backs were turned, under the prep table. It was fascinating to watch as Bob, the policeman, left his bowl and charged in, separating them. He stood growling at them – you could clearly see him saying “stop that you lot! If you are going to fight, take it outside!!!!” and they did! Wow, Go Bob!

Within the pack, we have blind and infirm, crippled and deformed, but each one has been brought to this beautiful place and loved and cared for by Cristina and her volunteers with unmatched dedication and love. There is about 2 acres of land here for them to run around in. Everyone has a warm and safe bed to sleep in and a loving hand to cuddle and care. It is a paradise for these dogs who otherwise would have a very cruel and painful life.

Most evenings after we have fed the dogs, we go for a walk to the bottom of the garden to hang out for a while as the evening starts to cool a bit. We take Nimbus, the most severely disabled, in the “golden chariot” (old wheelbarrow) down there too. Even though he has little use of his hind legs he can get around really fast. All the different smells are heaven for dogs, they love it. So funny though how they don’t go down that way much unless the humans go there, they are like children, only want to be where you are.

We spent 16 days here on our own. Chris, a volunteer, comes twice a week to help out. We are so grateful for her steady nature and knowledge of the dogs, we couldn’t have done it without her. Pang, a cleaner, comes three times a week to help with all the laundry, cleaning of the dog kitchen and picking up poo. She is a wonderful help and, again, a vital cog in this operation, we were very grateful for all her help.

Volunteer Chris, you are awesome!

When the sun goes down we put the doggies to bed. They all have their place and life goes quiet. Peace…….. Chris and I sit and have a beer and reflect on our day and congratulate each other that we made it through another one!

August in Thailand is supposed to be the rainy season, we had a couple of downpours but not enough rain to do any good. It is very hot and dusty. 34 deg C feels like 41deg C. Watering the garden is becoming a daily affair and jumping into the pool every few hours to cool off. Its not glamourous! Buckets of sweat, mixed with dust and generous amounts of dog slobber from all the loving licks of 44 hot wet tongues.

With having the help of Chris and Pang means we get time out to explore the area. We have a car and motorbike to use along with bikes. The beach is a 35 minute bike ride away so we get down there a couple of times. The water is not perfectly clear and is very shallow, but so nice to get into the ocean.

The food is wonderful – I know I do go on a bit about the food – but it is truly awesome, and so affordable. The markets are fascinating, and we love trying new things – but we do draw the line at the chicken feet and congealed blood. Thai people eat every part of the animal, so glad they do but I can’t bring myself to join in on that tradition, Sorry! The Pork in this part of the world is fantastic! Crispy, pulled, boiled, every style yum yum yum!!

We took a trip down to the Phraya Nakhon Cave. The hike is quite tough but so worth the effort. 110 feet up steep steps to the entrance of the cave then another steep decline into the cave. The cave is huge and there has been a small pavilion built inside. If you get there at the right time, the sun rays flood into the cavern illuminating the golden pavilion, lighting it up like magic. Though we went early enough to see the magical spectacle, it was overcast so we didn’t see it at its best, but still, absolutely amazing! We were the only ones in there and it was very humbling, so very magical.

We had a great time here again. I would so love to take a few dogs home, it would be hard to choose which though, they all have their own personalities and are all great dogs. We Might have a few favourites….cant help but love them!

Thank you Cristina and Paul for bestowing your trust in us to look after your furry kids, we know how much they mean and we are feel privileged to be the caretakers – or perhaps Auntie and Uncle!!

Good Night Team xx

Thank you for reading our story