Tag: eggcoffee

Vietnam, how we love you. October 2025

The last time we were in Vietnam was 2016. We have done some amazing travel since then. It was such a surprise to find how much we loved being back. It was almost like we had forgotten about Vietnam, been there, done that, sort of deal. She has now taken the title of ‘favourite place” in Southeast Asia.

We flew into Hanoi and had accommodation right in the middle of the Old Quarter. We arrived on a market night and the place was heaving with noise and colour and the most amazing smells. As the street was closed for all but foot traffic, the hotel manager met our taxi at the end of the road to help us through the throng of people.

The vibe was electric. You couldn’t help being swept up with the excitement. We found cold beer and the best Hanoi style spring rolls in the world. This is heaven.

We spent hours walking around taking in all the sights of the old Quarter. At the top of lake Ho Hoan Kiem, a Vietnamese man started gesturing to Chris to stop because he had something on his foot. We ignored the request, but the guy became quite agitated, so we stopped. The man pointed to Chris’s jandal and ended up with it in his hand, then promptly started repairing it. He wouldn’t give the jandal back; he even gave Chris a slipper to put on while he was waiting.

We were so surprised at the speed in which this all happened, we just stood there looking at each other. Next minute, a lady with a cone hat and a huge basket of fried donut balls appeared out of nowhere. She handed me one on a serviette. “Souvenir for you,” she said. I replied, “No thank you.” She insisted, “You take, you take, souvenir for you.” I said, “I don’t want one, thank you.” Before I realise what is happening, I have a small fried donuty thing in my hand. She starts filling a bag for me from her basket. “No, no, no, stop, I don’t want!” I say “Yes, you Take” no I don’t want!

Meanwhile, Chris comes to life. He takes his almost fixed jandal from the man. We start trying to walk away. We gave the man a small note for his trouble, and he shakes it at us, it clearly wasn’t enough haha! The donut lady is still shouting at us. She is still trying to give us a bag full of donuts. I am still holding my souvenir but we manage to lose them in the crowd. So that is a new one – I will fix your shoe?? We started noticing all the “shoe fixing” guys around the place, the latest scam!

We wanted to find the famous “Train Street”. The train tracks go right up the middle of a narrow street. This street is full of cafes under residential houses. It wasn’t hard to find and was well worth “tracking” down. The café chairs and tables were right up to the train tracks and even over the tracks in places. We were there about 1 pm, we had a few beers, and the obligatory Hanoi fried spring rolls.

The train was due about 3pm. 3 o’clock came and went. By 4 pm we decided to move on. It was such a shame we didn’t see the train come through, but the street itself was so cool. I think it would be quite scary when the train comes through. There were so many people around, on and beside the tracks. They would have to move the furniture and make sure everyone stayed safe.

Fast forward to the next day, we were getting the train down to Da Nang. Oh My Gosh, we realised as we settled into our sleeper cabin, we were in fact going to go down train street – ON THE TRAIN! And boy it goes so close to the cafes and the people and seemed to go so fast. It was so exciting, we had been right there, beside the track – on these train tracks!

That was us saying goodbye to Hanoi, next stop, 16 hours later, Da Nang. Da Nang is the most liveable city in Vietnam, according to Google. We had 8 nights accommodation booked at the extortionate price of $20NZD per night.

As we left Hanoi, we realized the next week was going to have bad weather. Oh well, what can you do? Absolutely nothing about the weather! Tropical Storm Fengshen was offshore and heading our way, here we go again. Hurricane in Puerto Rico. Snowstorm in Germany. Cyclone while in NZ. Threat of Cyclone in Tonga. Floods in Australia. Covid in USA. Why are we not surprised!!

As we approached Da Nang, the train slowed right down. We could see the mess of the coastline, mud everywhere and the filthy water. Rivers of water were rushing down the banks behind us, under the train and down the banks to the ocean. It was a little worrisome. We got in ok and only an hour late, grabbed a “Grab” (taxi) and got out to our accommodation.

It rained every day we were in Da Nang, some days harder than others, but it didn’t stop us having a great time. We bought rain ponchos and carried on.

The food in Vietnam is exceptional. So fresh and vibrant. We ate so many Banh mi, every time it just got better and better.

We like to eat local as much as we can when travelling and it always leads to great delights with both the food we try and the people we meet. One little place we found around the back of our accommodation; we ordered a dish each from the sparse menu. Old Mama brought us a couple of beers and set to working on our meals.

There were only about 5 tables there. At another table sat a couple of older local guys. They were having a few drinks. One guy came over to our table with 2 small cups, his bottle and offered us a drink. Well, it would be rude not to! So, we tried his homemade liquor of unknown origin, it wasn’t bad at all. We had a bit of a conversation then our meal came, and he left us to eat. The meal was very basic, but unbelievable delicious. After the meal both men come over and offered us more to drink, which we accepted quite happily. Turns out he was the cook’s husband. The guys taught us the Vietnamese toast – basically 1 – 2 – 3 Drink! Unsurprisingly, we picked it up quite well. Their daughter, 10 years old, came out to say hello and act as interpreter. It was so much fun with a lot of laughter. We finally had to leave. We tried to buy them a round of beers, but they would have none of it. This is what it is all about!

We found ourselves in another run-down looking shack on a street corner. It was covered in tarpaulins that had seen better days and better weather. We sat for a lunch time meal. We wait for a menu. Instead, Mama brings an assortment of salad leaves. She also brings bowls of oil, chilli, and spices. No words are yet spoken. Next, she brings 2 bowls of broth, pork belly and pork balls and a huge bowl of vermicelli noodles. Put it all together and you have Bun cha, the best we had tasted. I guess that was what was on the menu that day. So glad we didn’t get the choice!! It was delicious.

We always like trying the local coffee. You would think that coffee is coffee is coffee right? Well, no. Every country seems to have its own ways of brewing and serving. I could write a book on all the different coffee we have tried over the years. Here in Vietnam, you get Egg Coffee, doesn’t sound all that appealing really. But OMG, must be tried to be believed. It is created by whisking egg yolks with sweetened condensed milk. This makes an airy, creamy, custard-like foam that sits on top of strong, dark, robusta coffee. WOW. I read somewhere that it has been described as “liquid tiramisu” and I agree 100%. Apparently it originated in the 1940’s as a solution to milk shortages.

And then there is Salt Coffee?? This is the same strong coffee sweetened with condensed milk. It is then topped with a whipped cream layer made with blended fresh cream, milk, and salt. When you stir it all together, the saltiness mellows out the coffees strong, robust flavour and enhances the sweet, creamy milkiness, making it more complex. Again, WOW, stunning. The calories in these coffees must be out the door!!

We couldn’t get down to Hoi An (25km to the south) as it was flooded. There was flooding north of us and also inland. Though it rained continually, we didn’t have any flooding right by us. We still loved every minute. There is plenty to do and the food is so wonderful. It was no hardship to spend the week eating and drinking our way around our part of the city.

As it was raining all the time we used the Grab taxi service a lot more than we would have normally. It was outstanding, so cheap and efficient. We used Grab food too, when we didn’t want to venture out. The poor Grab motorbike guys would bring us food for next to no$$, soaking wet, now that is dedication. They have really cool rain ponchos that go over themselves and their handle bars. There are places for their hands and the mirrors, and a peep hole for their faces. Then their helmet sits on top of that, very cool. I guess they are very used to all that rain.

Go to Vietnam! Check out the Old Quarter of Hanoi. Spend some time in Da Nang. Enjoy its beautiful beaches, wonderful food, and hospitality. Even in the rain, it is amazing! Oh and by the way, Chris visited the dentist and got 2 crowns for $300NZD. I got a designer 3 piece linen trouser suit, made to measure for $200NZD. It won’t cost you a fortune when you go!

The plan is to go back to Da Nang this year. But it will not be in the rainy season. We intend to stay for a month, we loved it that much!

Thank you for reading our story

FYI……

**Tropical storm Fengshen generated extensive flooding and landslides in both the Philippines and Vietnam that left at least 54 people dead and ten others missing.

**The bánh mì (pronounced “bun mee”) is a iconic Vietnamese sandwich with a history spanning over 150 years, representing a fusion of French colonial influence and Vietnamese culinary ingenuity. It began as a luxury, Western-style snack and evolved into a popular, portable street food, spreading globally after 1975