Banana Split, Raja Ampat, October 2025
0700 We arrived to see the bright yellow boat nestled in between other yachts at the Tampa Garam Boat Harbour. We were knackered, having done an overnight flight from KL (Air Asia-tiny seats) via a 4-hour layover in Jakarta.
We get ourselves and all our luggage safety on board. This is all so new to us; we have never been on this boat before. We start exploring, turning on switches looking in cupboards, stripping off clothes as it is getting hotter and hotter. We close the fridge and try to get it going but it doesn’t seem to be working. We do a little diagnostics as good as we can given we don’t know where to look. But this is just a boat, right? We have been on boats before; how hard can this be. No luck, this fridge is refusing to cooperate.
By now it is a decent time in France, so we call and talk to the owner, how do you turn the fridge on? We had already found the fridge motor and all looked ok there, all switches we can see are on, Arnaud is none the wiser. In the end we call the Skipper who delivered Banana Split from Australia, and ask him how did he turn the fridge off? Maybe we could retrace his steps in reverse. So, it turns out that there is a separate switch for the fridge, in a faraway place, all on its own, cunningly disguised as the anchor winch switch. Well, you don’t know if you don’t know!
Life is now good; we have the whole boat operational. By now it is afternoon and we are starting to really feel the heat. Then an angel came down from heaven, in the form of the Aussie bloke from the boat next door, in a little grey inflatable – carrying 2 cold beers! What a guy! This was so appreciated, we cannot say. This was Matt, and his wife Jo. They have sailed up from Australia and are sailing around Indonesia and beyond, for as long as it takes; Awesome! After getting some supplies of our own, we took our borrowed dinghy to their boat and spent the evening enjoying their company, swapping our warm beer for cold. This is a fantastic start to our time here in Sorong.
We spend 2 weeks at the marina. Matt and Jo left the day after we arrived. We are busy every day, getting to know the boat, doing a little tidying and sorting and exploring a bit of Sorong.
We decide we should do a day trip, a little shake down, feel the boat. So, we let the lines go and head out for a few hours. All goes well and we like Banana Split, she is a good solid boat and very easy to manoeuvre.
Coming back in is a little challenging. We have never had anything to do with the Mediterranean Mooring system which is used here at Tampa Garam. We had a good plan and had left the stern lines ashore where we could back in and pick them up with the boat hook – easy peasy. And it was. We came in and tied up like pros! High fives all round for us! Great day!
So, with the trial run completed, it is decided that we should go further and see a bit of this amazing part of the world, Raja Ampat. Let’s go for a week. We spent a few more days provisioning the boat and planning our passage.
Sunday 0630: We head out on a course for Mansur and Kri. The weather is a bit overcast which is giving us shade and the sea is very calm with light variable winds. Other boaties around have been saying that there has been no wind to speak of, so they have not been getting their sails up. We don’t know our headsail from our genoa anyway and have no intention of trying to undo all the perfectly tied up sails and sheets and whatever-else-they-are-called. We would never be able to get it all back together again as we found it. Like re-folding a map – I guess you have to be a certain age to understand what that is like!! Anyway, we do not feel out of place motoring along with all sails neatly stowed in their rightful places.
We are making good speed, 4.5 – 4.8knots, 37 miles to travel. Should make it by about 1530. We almost speak too soon, 5 hours into the journey a squall comes out of nowhere. This was not forecasted. The wind is getting up to 20 knots almost right on the nose. We are now only making 2 – 2.5knots. We take a few good greenies over the bow and things start falling all over the place. We were still towing the dinghy as it was so calm but wished we had brought her up on deck. We just have to punch through it and hope it passes soon.
For three hours that squall held right over us. We took a bit of water in through the front hatches, it is a wet bed tonight. PugWash (newly named dinghy) held on like a brave little soldier and finally it calmed.
We made our way to the anchorage we had chosen from the Chart. It is a new chart plotter, so all the values had to be entered. It was Nautical Miles for distance, and I changed the depth from feet to meters. I thought there was something wrong with the settings because the depths were still showing feet – well that is what I thought. It is so interesting how our brains work when you have a belief or an assumption, you just won’t believe anything else. Maybe this area has not been converted into meters yet, I thought? This is so deep; it has to be feet. Areas showing 200m+ Is this for real?? Turns out Yes, definitely meters. The terrain is so steep. It would go from 80+m to 2m in a boat length, just incredible. So, our anchorage is no good – it is 50m deep here – not 50ft. We only have 60m of chain onboard.
OK, plan B.
1730: It will be getting dark soon. We have to make our way around the top of Kri to where there are 2 mooring buoys. It looks a bit shallower over there, so could anchor if the buoys are being used. But there is a reef between us, and it is getting dark. We navigate very slowly between the island and the shallows, watching the chart plotter, and the depth finder as the sun goes down. It was almost high tide which was totally to our advantage. Chris was on the helm, and I was calling the depths as they changed. Chris could see lumps of reef breaking the surface, shining in the dusky light close by. We got to 2 meters for a bit before it deepened again.
There was a super yacht tied up on what we assumed was the mooring from the resort ashore. Just ahead of her was about 20m depth, lets try to anchor there.
1900: It is fully dark. We get the anchor down. Next minute, a Long-boat full of people coming back from a dive, approach us all in a panic, – “go to the buoy, go to the buoy” oh man! It is pitch black, how the heck will we find a buoy now? But we have to try.
We look back now and think it was an absolute miracle that we found that buoy, but it was there, and we pulled it up first try, then settled for 2 nights.
Sleep didn’t come easily that night, the mooring line made noises we were not used to.
The next day we tidied up, dried everything out and rested after the ordeals of the journey.
Kiwis Do Fly 